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When I first started my career in triathlon, I got to a certain level by training with my buddies, in groups and non-structured environments. I then left for a while and came back with a whole new attitude. I found a coach I liked and really appreciated his ideas. So I committed myself to the training. I rarely trained with people. Eighty-five to 90 percent of the training I did alone, which worked for me. So if I were climbing a hill and my heart rate spiked, I’d walk up the hill. This created self-confidence. I came out and won my first race by training alone, which was Wildflower, a tough course.
2. Do drills
People neglect cycling and running drills. I did them. So on race day I would lose as little fitness as possible. I could be more efficient, not really falling apart halfway through the marathon because of the training drills. The reality is you should be doing drills all the time, year in and year out. I was different than a lot of pros by doing that.
Don’t train for general fitness. I think I was one of the first to train on the Big Island. I trained in the heat and learned the currents of the water. When I did Wildflower, I’d incorporate rides and runs similar to that course. I found out the course had lots of trails and hills, so I thought, okay, I need to run hills and train specific to that course.
4. Put yourself in pain
This one is kind of sadistic. I always had this problem of my stomach shutting down during the marathon of an Ironman. So I thought if I could run with my stomach shutting down, I could do it in a race. So once a week I would sit down and eat nachos with really spicy hot sauce. Then I’d get my running gear on, go for a run and of course, my stomach would shut down, but I’d just keep going. They were brutal training runs. But then on race day, when my stomach would shut down I’d think, “I can deal with this.” I’d be able to keep going. Doing this paid off so many times over. I’d do this 10 weeks out from Ironman until two weeks before race day. It’d be a horrible run, but it had a huge impact on my overall race performance.
5. Spend the dough
I see this with a lot of age-groupers. They spend so much time and effort training for an Ironman and they don’t bother to get new tires or get a tune-up. Get new tires. Get a new chain if you need it. You’ve invested so much time, just pay the couple of extra bucks. Don’t cheap out. It’s worth the extra expense.
6. Get out of shape
I got this piece of advice from Paula Newby-Fraser and it was one of the best things I have heard. She told me, “Peter, you can have a great short career or you can have a great long career. But you need to take time to leave the sport behind you.” Basically, you need to get out of shape to get back into shape. You need to physically and mentally recharge. You need to become a non-athlete. Don’t eat healthy. It hurts your fitness, sure, but it makes for a better long-term career. Mark Allen did this and it worked for him. Doing this prepares your body for another season. It was so easy for me to do this because two legends told me they did it. It felt like a part of the puzzle of being pro.
7. Don’t workout when sick
I see so many athletes tinker with their workouts when they are sick. Don’t. Take the day off.
8. Know your body
If you head out the door and your knee hurts, don’t push through it because then all of a sudden you’re injured and you are out. Stop exercising and take a couple of days off rather than be out a couple of weeks.
tips from www.triathlete.com
Over the years, I have heard my share of bicycle fitting myths. It’s hard not to be succumbed to them with the internet hosting blogs and videos on ‘how to fit your bike’ by any person out there. By understanding these misconceptions about bike fitting, you can learn how to avoid things that could be hampering your progress as a cyclist. You’ll also understand the process and science behind bicycle fitting and its value to you, regardless of your riding ability.
MYTH 1: I ONLY NEED A BIKE FIT IF MY POSITION IS VERY UNCOMFORTABLE OR IF I HAVE JUST PURCHASED A NEW BIKE
Bike fitting is an ongoing process. Your body is always changing from its fitness, flexibility, weight, and strength. It’s recommended to get a fit at least once a year. If you have just purchased a new bike, or have recovered from an injury or surgery, a bike fit is very important in optimizing your performance on the bike.
MYTH 2: IT DOESN’T WORK. I HAVE ALREADY RECEIVED A FIT BEFORE (FROM MANY DIFFERENT PEOPLE) AND IT DIDN’T HELP
It’s important to understand that the term ‘bike fit’ is used in many different contexts, as there are several different philosophies of fit and levels of fitting expertise. Some bike shops may advertise a ‘bike fit’, but are only offering a few minor adjustments, or the person performing the fit was never professionally trained. The FASTER Fit Lab represents the best fitting methodology in the world with our 2-Dimensional and 3-Dimensional camera systems and fitting expertise. By improving your biomechanics, we work to make you more efficient, more comfortable, and faster on your bike. The FASTER fit is a very in-depth service that takes 2 to 3 hours and involves: an interview on your medical history, flexibility testing, range of motion, and then spinning on the bike as we analyze your biomechanics and make adjustments to the bike and your position. After 30 days, we bring you back into the FASTER Fit Lab for a follow up fit (at no additional charge), to make any additional changes to your bike based upon how you have adjusted to the fit in your riding.
MYTH 3: I HAVE A BIG TRIATHLON EVENT COMING UP AND I DON’T WANT TO GET A FIT NOW BECAUSE THOSE CHANGES MIGHT BE DRAMATIC AND COULD AFFECT MY PERFORMANCE
When you have an event coming up, we work with you to ensure that the proper adjustments are made to make you more efficient on your bike without making major changes. The FASTER Fit includes a 30-day follow-up, which we would schedule with you for before your event, and use that time to make any major adjustments that may be necessary. That way, you will be more efficient for your event, and still get in the necessary fit adjustments to make an overall long term impact on your riding.
MYTH 4: I HAVE TRIED MANY DIFFERENT CUSTOM INSOLES FOR MY FEET, BUT KEEP GETTING NUMBNESS/TINGLING, HOT FEET, AND DISCOMFORT. MAYBE I HAVEN’T FOUND THE PERFECT INSOLES…
We’ve heard this many times from people and have always addressed this issue in the FASTER Fit lab. Issues with your feet usually result from improper cleat placement, saddle placement, and other adjustments on the bike. During the FASTER Fit, we spend a great deal of time working with your feet to make sure your feet are not only comfortable but to improve your overall efficiency on the bike.
MYTH 5: IF I LOWER MY STEM AND GET AS LOW AS POSSIBLE, IT WILL MAKE ME MORE AERO
Being hunched over in what people typically think of as an ‘aero’ position could be hindering your performance. There is a scientific formula for what angle your hips can be in before you lose power on the bike. Think about crimping a hose and the water not coming out. This is what you can do to your power on the bike by putting yourself in this position. During a recent experiment in the FASTER Wind Tunnel, Melissa experimented with lowering her stem on a Cervelo P3 time trial bike. After the test, we found her to not only be less aero, but she was extremely uncomfortable in this position.
MYTH 6: MY LOWER BACK IS BOTHERING ME, SO I PROBABLY NEED TO RAISE MY HANDLEBARS
We have often seen people make adjustments to their bike based on ‘symptoms’ and have not only aggravated those symptoms, but created new issues. Raising the handlebars does seem logical, but in some circumstances, can actually create more pressure in your lower back. If you are currently experiencing these symptoms, be sure to contact us directly and get proper advice.
MYTH 7: MY HANDS KEEP GOING NUMB. MAYBE IT’S EITHER MY GLOVES OR I’M GETTING OLD
Your hands are full of many nerves and unfortunately, cycling puts a lot of pressure on these nerves. Sometimes using padded gloves can help alleviate pressure on these nerves and reduce the numbness in your hands, but many times, this is caused by a fitting issue. A proper fit reduces the amount of pressure that is put on your arms. During a fit, we may adjust the distance and height your handlebars are from your body. We may also pick a new handlebar to improve your fit, as they come in many sizes and shapes (round or more flat).
MYTH 8: I NEED TO BUY A BIKE FIRST, AND THEN GET FIT TO THE BIKE
You can do it in this order, however at FASTER, we recommend getting a fit first, and taking your fit measurements to find your perfect new bike. Bikes have many different geometries between brands, and even models within a brand. Depending on your riding style, flexibility, goals, and fit measurements, we can help narrow down which options would work best for you and your budget.
MYTH 9: BIKE FITTING IS EXPENSIVE
We’ll admit, cycling isn’t a cheap sport. However, when you consider the costs of a new bike, wheels, or clothing, a bike fit is a minimal investment. At FASTER, we offer two levels of fitting: a 2D/3D fit for $299.99 and a Medical fit for $499.99. We also offer a 3D Speed Lab Fitting for $749.99 which involves a 2D/3D fit and an hour in our wind tunnel. This is for athletes who want to be completely optimized, where power output and respiration rate will be evaluated while aerodynamic drag is also measured. Investing in a fit can also prevent future costs of getting injured or not riding your bike because it was too uncomfortable.
MYTH 10: I ONLY GET DISCOMFORT WHEN I GO LONGER DISTANCES ON MY BIKE… SHOULD I JUST RIDE SHORTER DISTANCES FROM NOW ON?
Riding longer distances should be enjoyable yet challenging. A proper bike fit will ensure that no matter the distance you are riding, you are optimized in comfort and performance. You never have to resort to shorter distances on your bike rides, unless you absolutely want to.
article from thetrihub
There have been rumors about the new Schwalbe Procore system. But it is already clear that the system carries two air chambers. One evening after demo-day, Schwalbe revealed the new system, and it was immediately obvious they had made some new clever changes. Initially prototype versions had two valves, requiring modification to the rims, but Shwalbe presented the system with just one valve. Additionally, there have been some changes to their range of tyres too.
Massive grip and high protection against punctures. – This is what Schwalbe promises.
The Schwalbe Procore system proved itself able to handle the pressure on the race cicuit over the last couple of weeks. Nico Lau won the Enduro World Series races in Scotland and Sam Hill, the last Downhill Worldcup in Meribel, both riding procore.
|DISTANCE||Up to Aug 15||Up to Aug 31||Up to Sept 15||Up to Oct 15|
|Sprint & Teens||P1,500||P2,000||P2,500||P3,000|
Online registration link: www.bikekingphilippines.com
November 23, 2014
|5:00 AM||Transition Area Opens|
|START OF RACE|
|7:40 AM||Team Competition||Mix||11|
|Starting time may change depending on the number of entries|
2015 CANNONDALE CAAD10 GETS DISC BRAKE READY, SYNAPSE CARBON LINEUP GROWS AND MORE.
Cannondale’s 2015 road and cyclocross bike lineup commits to disc brakes, giving more road bike models the option and going all in for ‘cross. That’s right, all CAAD-X and SuperX cyclocross bikes are disc brake only, no more cantilever options. There’ll even be a SRAM CX1 build in the lineup!
The well regarded alloy CAAD10 models switched to internal routing for MY2014, and the new disc brake versions use it for both shift and brake runs. Cable ports are swappable for mechanical or electronic systems.
Check more details plus the slick new Synapse bikes and more below
Rear brake mount and dropout is forged from a single piece, which is stronger while saving weight and insuring perfect alignment. The rear triangle was redesigned to mimic the feel of the original. By changing the wall thickness throughout the tube’s radius, they got the same flex profile. It’s only about 5mm or less, but it’ll take the edge off bumps.
The dropouts get their Speed Tip angled inserts to guide the wheel in more quickly. The brake mounts use a combination of bonded in upper mount and carbon/alloy 3D forged piece on the bottom. So, they’re carbon dropouts with an alloy face and threads. Rotors shown here are not proper spec, it’ll get the new SRAM Centerline rotors.